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Create: 2025-05-21 Update: 2025-07-03 15:21:31

Ода царской промышленности.

Ч. ІѴ: Хлѣбопекарная промышленность.

«Въ связи съ этимъ надо отмѣтить русское хлѣбопекарное производство. Россія создала цѣлую своеобразную культуру чернаго и бѣлаго хлѣба, неизвѣстную въ другихъ странахъ. Выпеканіе чернаго хлѣба различныхъ видовъ—въ зависимости отъ сорта муки, отъ способа замѣшиванія, закваски, примѣсей и т. д., доведено было до высшаго мастерства. Русскій пшеничный хлѣбъ отличался исключительной пышностью и нѣжностью, какой нѣтъ въ западно-европейскомъ хлѣбѣ; это объясняется тѣмъ, что наша лучшая крупчатая мука, получаемая изъ такъ называемыхъ твердыхъ пшеницъ, неизвѣстныхъ на западѣ, содержитъ въ себѣ много клейковины, благодаря которой тѣсто отличается особой всхожестью, а выпекаемый хлѣбъ—рыхлостью. И здѣсь мы имѣли исключительное разнообразіе сортовъ и вкусовъ: вѣсовой пшеничный хлѣбъ, французская булка, калачъ, розанъ, подковка, дѣлянка, съ макомъ, съ солью, съ изюмомъ, безчисленные сорта плюшекъ, баранокъ, сухарей, шницелей, куличей; пироговъ съ начинкой, сладкихъ пирожковъ—все созданное русскимъ вкусомъ, русской изобрѣтательностью и традиціей».

(Мелкихъ А. О качествѣ русскаго довоеннаго производства // Русскій Колоколъ. №5. 1928).

Очередное подтвержденіе того, что для выпечки настоящихъ калачей (во всякомъ случаѣ, московскихъ) требуется крупчатка—мука изъ твердыхъ сортовъ русскихъ пшеницъ. Ну и пришвинская метафора, какъ видимъ, возникла не случайно.

Иллюстрація: Илья Машковъ. Снѣдь московская. Хлѣбы (1924).

Ч. І: текстильная промышленность.

Ч. ІІ: чайная промышленность.

Ч. ІІІ: кондитерская промышленность.

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Ода царской промышленности.

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